The conditions looked promising:
- Way low minus tide at dawn
-Modest swell from a straight south direction
-No fog, no wind
It was time once again for DogMan's Left!

DogMan's Left is a "secret" spot that is not really a secret. I've written about it before in these Chronicles, and other people have by now surfed there. But it's not really a surf spot. Maybe I should explain.

There are many beach locations which might be surf breaks, except they are missing one or another crucial element. Like a reef, or shelter from the wind, or a sand bar, or swell. DogMan's Left is like that; almost a break. But with very specific conditions, once or five times a year, the waves will peel. And if the waves peel, surfers will come.

So Saturday dawn was the first chance this season for a special ride at a special place. Make no mistake: the waves are not epic at this spot, even when the conditions are right. However, it is a real kick to ride waves at a place that "isn't a break." And going backside left in the land of rights is a great way to spend a morning session.

I had to paddle out. I had to sit in the lineup during long lulls. I had to shiver in the extra chilly spring ocean water. I had to be caught out of position when the intermittent "killer" set swept the channel clean. I had to paddle for a number of waves I couldn't catch. I had to back out of waves that sucked the reef dry in front of me.

And then I had to get a couple perfect rides, from the tip of the reef all the way onto the sandy beach. Not much compares with a ride of 200 meters that takes you to ankle-deep water along the shore. You step off your board, calmly pick it from the shallow water, tuck it under your arm, turn to watch the incoming waves, then push over the top of the next one to paddle to the lineup once more.

After a moderate session of moderately good waves, I climbed the cliff to meet Mark on the way to the usual spot. We compared notes, and even though I had a good time at the rare lefts, Mark headed to the more realiably and often ridden rights located in the next cove. I am sure he had a great time in the water, but it can't compare with the very seldom ridden waves of DogMan's Left.

CU Out There,

DogMan