If You Build It They Will Surf






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Pacific Wave Rider
 



If You Build It They Will Surf


The groin illustrated.


Solid double O and ripping.


Making a late drop.

Ê

Introduction

Mid January 2005: A break in the bad weather. Crisp, clear, a touch of fog, but flat, flat, flat. Still looking forÊ the next decent winter swell, which may have arrived by the time you read this. But at the time of this column'sÊ writing, the ocean in these parts was as placid as a lake. No fun, no waves, no surf. Time to remember another coolÊ sess from late December!



Moving fast down the line. How far can you go?


Gnarly takeoff next to the rocks.


Turn, go, don't fall.

The Groin

Many places along our coast lines have breakwaters, also called groins, jutting from the sand into the water. TheseÊ man-built constructs will commonly mark the entrance to a harbor of some type. So along one side of the rocks is aÊ deep water channel for safe boat passage. Typically on the other side of the rocks, the ocean will fill sandÊ alongside the groin.



The ever-popular flying cutback.


Brushing a falling lip.

The Break

As soon as the sand begins to reform the bottom, we all know what happens: waves begin to break and peel. Surf! SoonÊ wave riders appear, enjoying the unintentional man made surf break. Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor is an example of thisÊ phenomenon, as is Sebastian Inlet.



Turning into it for another pass.


Another crisp turn at the top.


Bust a move.

Southern California Groin

The breakwater and waves featured in this column are in Southern California, which is no stranger to groins. It wasÊ a beautiful morning in December, with waves of double overhead height slamming the rocks and peeling down the line.Ê A hearty (and hardy) crew was in the lineup, riding kamakazie waves, and even making a few. The stakes were a bitÊ high for other surfers, who stood along the shore enjoying the show.



Pullin' in on a double O wave.

Commitment

Several leashes broke in the time it took to snap these pix. No boards appeared to break, but it would not have beenÊ unexpected in these conditions. CRUNCH! BOOM! Powerful and thunderous, many of these wavesÊ were only there to be avoided. But those that don't go will never ever know.



Crouching thru the moguls.

After the Waves

Truth be told, DogMan wasn't out in the big time either. He rode waves for a few hours at another break, just downÊ the coast. After the sess it was time to watch others ride, and take some pix for this column. Maybe next visit willÊ see DogMan ride the waves at this break.



Spray shows the power of this wave.



Open face cruise.

Ê

The groin illustrated.


CU Out There,

DogMan


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