Maui Calls






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Maui Calls


Maui calls. A soulful surf pic of a soulful surf sess.

Introduction

The "Myth About Hawaiian Surfers" column a few weeks ago stimulated much reader email. Was going to do a column using the various response, but late Sunday night, after the second run on the front page of PWR, the column got one fantastic response. The aloha, the stoke, and the story told by LA are all worth sharing. So this column features one extremely cool email describing one woman's experience surfing Maui. Only the names of people and places have been changed to protect the innocent. Hope you like it too.

Editor's note: Unlike most DMC columns, this one features soulful pix of Maui, not exclusively surf pix. Rest assured, more surf pix will be in future columns. For now, don't click 'em if you don't dig 'em.


Maui sunset over Lani, seen from Lahaina.

Aloha DogMan

"Looking out my Upcountry window to the broad northshore, a lone reefline tells me there's a wave to ride at P****. I paddeled out at 7am, on my boogieboard to the lovely faces of dawnpatrol friends. The swell was coming east but mostly north, with a good size set every 10 minutes. In these waves I'm less of a danger then on my board, plus I can cach a standup wave, stall at the time and jam. The crew was small for awhile and there were waves for each of us. I love surfing P*****, so much that my tattoist in Petaluma, through surfer's sense, tattooed the wave perfect on my under arm, giving my surfer and boogieboarder a wave to ride.


DogMan rides the west side of Maui at dawn.

Surfing's Sweeter the Second Time Around

"Now I am 57, have been surfing 15 years this time 'round. Ho'okipa and the ohana there helped me to find my place in the lineup. I know the P***** radboyz, they treat me like Auntie who loves to surf and knows how to hold her own and not be a menace. The older surfers, and the wahines are always glad to see each other. KS and M came out, they haven't surfed there for awhile. I love the way M surfs, with grace and effiency. She has taught me a lot, like 'be quiet LA, and pay attention.' There is also the "gogogo" that I miss out at Bolinas. People in black rubber tend to be a bit reserved unlike da locals in the morning. Yesterday I surfed with MK, of Kazuma fame. He can rip a ripple; today it was this man on a green board who surfs so beautifilly. KR on his longboard is pretty awesome. And every morning it's a new visual delight.


South Maui sunset.

Two Months in Paradise

"I'm here for 2 monthes and plan to master the 8' Becker beater board a friend has lent me. I ride a 9'2" Timpone that once belonged to Dave Kalama. I left her at home, not wanting her to get womped, that's my job. The Becker is the shortest board I've ever ridden, it's a challange. The tide is good right now, everyone is on the southside and there is an Earth Day party going on at B*****. I'll drive down K***** to swing by Ho'okipa and make up my mind then.


Artsy shot from Maui's westside.

What it is all About

"It is about Aloha. You have it or you don't. It is acknowledged by those who matter, and in the lineup it means A LOT. No problem, I'm stoked just to be bobbing out there with wonderful friends and great surfers.

"All the best,

"LA"


Watershot of the West Maui Mountains.

DogMan Responds

LA,

"Such a wonderful, stoked-drenched email from paradise! I'm pleased you read the column and took the time to respond. Living two months in Upcountry, I'd be toooooo mellow to browse some haole's column on the web and actually email him. So thanx. Your email has more aloha than I've received in a long long time.


Sunrise over Haleakala.

"I'm younger than you, but not by much! Every winter at Ho'okipa I wonder if I still have what it takes to paddle out with da boyz into the land o' commitment. So far so good. I love to boogie, and body surf, as well as ride my standup shortboard.


Another sunrise over Haleakala.

"I truly appreciate your tale of the islands. It communicates so much. Here in Santa Cruz it's currently very very hot and summer-like. There's a south swell in the water and I plan to dawn patrol Monday before work. Live to surf, surf to live. I only work to finance my life!

"Thanx again for such an uplifting message. Sounds like you're a Nocal gal on sabbatical in paradise."

"Yours, DM"


Last sunset on Maui. Taken from Kahului the evening before jetting home to Californina.


CU Out There,

DogMan


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