Surfed Ho'okipa three different days this past February while on Maui. Each day was distinct, making for interesting contrasts and comparisons. You can see a similar shot of the same lineup from the three different days above. They show three distinct faces of this famous Maui surf spot.

Previous DM columns described the mellow, fun wave sess, and the large wave sunny sess. This column is about the third sess, the blustery, big and scary sess. As you can see from the pic above, just paddling out on a day like this can be a check of your commitment. Gotta tell you honestly, some days I have what it takes to assume this risk, somedays I don't. It amounts to this: how much punishment are you willing to endure for that rush we all love? The release of making a double O wave in heavy conditions is balanced against the probability of the ocean making us pay to play.

Check the pic above, depicting a set of waves greater than double overhead on the faces. This would be 2 feet Hawaiian. ;>} Notice the lack of surfers in the lineup. There's one or two, but not a bunch. So you gotta like the crowd factor on a day like this. You can have your pick of waves to ride into glory. But notice also the single surfer on the inside paddling out. You think you could handle this assignment? Maybe you can, maybe you can't; let me tell you the stakes are high! The prevailing currents are sweeping this surfer to the left, into the rocky point with no safe exit. Either he makes it over the waves to safety or,..... wait a minute, there is no alternative. Still feel like paddling out in these conditions?

So this particular surfer made it far enough into the lineup to snag this inside wave. While it's not double overhead, it's still a substantial wall o' water to drive him shoreward. A false move at this point will certainly be punished. Still, the rewards for trying are great, and real injuries are somewhat rare.

This surfer has been swept in front of the rocky point of no return by the currents. Just his luck there's a major set pounding the scene. The only choice is now to paddle, paddle hard, paddle straight for the horizon, and don't think about any plan B. There really is no plan B. He has to make it or ELSE!

Here's an overview of the scene. Notice the tiny surfer in the background, surfing a hero wave back to the left toward the point. He's on a mission to greatness. Notice also at least two surfers paddling, against tall odds, away from the point and toward the lineup. Do you think they made it? Do you think you could make it? What would you do if it became clear you couldn't make it? Too many questions, not many answers. One last point; there's no lifeguard, no jetski to save you if it gets to be too much to handle. So you're still on shore weighing your options. Would you go? I know, I know, Eddie would go. But consider this: Eddie died!

CU Out There,

DogMan